C
Chris Carlen
Hi:
My recent experiences purchasing an audio amp afford some points for
reflection on the electronics of such.
I purchased a NAD C325BEE amplifier, basically the cheapest 2-channel
integrated amp on the market ($399). One might surmise then that I
don't accept the idea that amplifiers "sound different" presuming they
are of less than some threshold of distortion considered to be "hi-fi"
(let's say about 0.1%) and not operating at clipping.
Now I discover that the amp runs very hot when doing nothing. I
recorded temperatures on the top cover over the centrally placed
heatsinks of about 47C when the front panel power button was off, and up
to 52C when operating (but not producing any meaningful output power, so
basically idling).
This seriously bugs me. I have a Kyocera A-710 which is twice the
power, and it is barely perceptably warm almost always, but particularly
when idle. Granted, the Kyocera has two massive sinks on either side of
the chassis, with total area probably 2-4 times EACH the area of the
single sink in the NAD used for all four output transistors (two for
each channel, 4 total all on one sink).
I am worried that the amp was not correctly adjusted for bias when it
was made. Another possibility is that it was designed this way.
I posted in rec.audio.high-end:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec....f7d35?lnk=st&q=&rnum=4&hl=en#835d2256f3ef7d35
"I have personally designed a very high power (480W cont., 650W peak)
class-D amp and some single ended motion-control servo amplifiers in the
several hundred Watt level. When designed thoughfully, thermal cycling
is not a detrimental reliability factor. I'm afraid perhaps the
designers erred on the side of greater bias current rather than higher
negative feedback and open-loop BW to servo out crossover distortion.
While this might make some audiophiles (not myself, I think low
distortion can be acheived with low quiescent) happy, it is not ideal
from an idle efficiency standpoint. "
To which "BEAR" responded:
BEGIN QUOTE:
Secondly, you can not achieve the same results with (as you say)
"negative feedback and open-loop BW to servo out crossover distortion"
as you can with a higher bias point (there may be exceptions, of
course). In general, higher levels of negative fb yield undesireable
artifacts in terms of higher order harmonics.
It is certainly a good idea to have a wider than not wide open loop BW,
whenever possible. Of course.
Overall better sound comes when each stage in the amplifier is made as
linear as possible before applying feedback (if you do at all) and when
the details of each stage's operational pros and cons are considered
fully. It's not a simple thing, even though there are "standard ways" of
designing each stage of an amp. The "standard ways" do not always
yield the intended or optimal result.
(Let's ignore for the benefit of this discussion those who would posit
that all amplfiers not clipped, and below some threshold of distortion
are not audibly different)
END QUOTE.
As I implied my limited design experience is more toward motor amps
rather than audio. Yet I have read considerable material on the subject
over the years. All I really have to go on is the fact that my Kyocera
amp is twice the power yet runs extremely cool, and sounds no different
than the NAD amp when not at its limits.
What is the view on the fellows assertion that NFB is bad? Even if the
THD harmonics are not distributed evenly, what difference does it make
if the amp still acheives 0.02% or something like that?
Comments appreciated.
P.S. All this is making me curious to try some experiments sometime,
starting with a butt-simple class-B puch pull emitter follower driving a
speaker, then followed by an op-amp power booster topology with the
op-amp cleaning up the crossover distortion. I wonder if just going
that far would be enough to where the distortion is no longer audible.
--
Good day!
________________________________________
Christopher R. Carlen
Principal Laser&Electronics Technologist
Sandia National Laboratories CA USA
[email protected]
NOTE, delete texts: "RemoveThis" and
"BOGUS" from email address to reply.
My recent experiences purchasing an audio amp afford some points for
reflection on the electronics of such.
I purchased a NAD C325BEE amplifier, basically the cheapest 2-channel
integrated amp on the market ($399). One might surmise then that I
don't accept the idea that amplifiers "sound different" presuming they
are of less than some threshold of distortion considered to be "hi-fi"
(let's say about 0.1%) and not operating at clipping.
Now I discover that the amp runs very hot when doing nothing. I
recorded temperatures on the top cover over the centrally placed
heatsinks of about 47C when the front panel power button was off, and up
to 52C when operating (but not producing any meaningful output power, so
basically idling).
This seriously bugs me. I have a Kyocera A-710 which is twice the
power, and it is barely perceptably warm almost always, but particularly
when idle. Granted, the Kyocera has two massive sinks on either side of
the chassis, with total area probably 2-4 times EACH the area of the
single sink in the NAD used for all four output transistors (two for
each channel, 4 total all on one sink).
I am worried that the amp was not correctly adjusted for bias when it
was made. Another possibility is that it was designed this way.
I posted in rec.audio.high-end:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec....f7d35?lnk=st&q=&rnum=4&hl=en#835d2256f3ef7d35
"I have personally designed a very high power (480W cont., 650W peak)
class-D amp and some single ended motion-control servo amplifiers in the
several hundred Watt level. When designed thoughfully, thermal cycling
is not a detrimental reliability factor. I'm afraid perhaps the
designers erred on the side of greater bias current rather than higher
negative feedback and open-loop BW to servo out crossover distortion.
While this might make some audiophiles (not myself, I think low
distortion can be acheived with low quiescent) happy, it is not ideal
from an idle efficiency standpoint. "
To which "BEAR" responded:
BEGIN QUOTE:
Secondly, you can not achieve the same results with (as you say)
"negative feedback and open-loop BW to servo out crossover distortion"
as you can with a higher bias point (there may be exceptions, of
course). In general, higher levels of negative fb yield undesireable
artifacts in terms of higher order harmonics.
It is certainly a good idea to have a wider than not wide open loop BW,
whenever possible. Of course.
Overall better sound comes when each stage in the amplifier is made as
linear as possible before applying feedback (if you do at all) and when
the details of each stage's operational pros and cons are considered
fully. It's not a simple thing, even though there are "standard ways" of
designing each stage of an amp. The "standard ways" do not always
yield the intended or optimal result.
(Let's ignore for the benefit of this discussion those who would posit
that all amplfiers not clipped, and below some threshold of distortion
are not audibly different)
END QUOTE.
As I implied my limited design experience is more toward motor amps
rather than audio. Yet I have read considerable material on the subject
over the years. All I really have to go on is the fact that my Kyocera
amp is twice the power yet runs extremely cool, and sounds no different
than the NAD amp when not at its limits.
What is the view on the fellows assertion that NFB is bad? Even if the
THD harmonics are not distributed evenly, what difference does it make
if the amp still acheives 0.02% or something like that?
Comments appreciated.
P.S. All this is making me curious to try some experiments sometime,
starting with a butt-simple class-B puch pull emitter follower driving a
speaker, then followed by an op-amp power booster topology with the
op-amp cleaning up the crossover distortion. I wonder if just going
that far would be enough to where the distortion is no longer audible.
--
Good day!
________________________________________
Christopher R. Carlen
Principal Laser&Electronics Technologist
Sandia National Laboratories CA USA
[email protected]
NOTE, delete texts: "RemoveThis" and
"BOGUS" from email address to reply.