Maker Pro
Maker Pro

555 timer -> Relay -> Light problem

E

Echinos

I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?
 
C

Chris

Echinos said:
I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?

Hi, Echinos. Here are some things to watch for:

* If you're using an automotive type relay, make sure about the relay
pinout. Sometimes, one end of the coil is connected to one of the
contacts.

* Driving inductive loads directly from a 555 can be a problem. If
the pinout on the relay coil is OK, try using a small transistor to
drive the relay, like this (view in fixed font or M$ Notepad):

|
| VCC VCC
| + +
| | |
| - C| RY1
| ^ C|
| -----. | C|
| | | |
| | '---o
| | |
| | |
| 3| ___ |/
| o-|___|- -| 2N3904
| 555 | 1K | |>
| | .-. |
| | 1K| | |
| | | | |
| | '-' |
| | | |
| | === ===
| | GND GND
| |
| -----'
|
(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)

You can use a 2N2222, 2N4401 or just about any other small signal NPN
transistor. This will probably solve your problem.

Good luck
Chris
 
J

James Thompson

Echinos said:
I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?
Posibly the higher load is causing the voltage to ripple some making the
timer not work. Try about a 330 uf cap on the 12 supply to the timer. Your
pc supply may not be very well regulated under that size load.
 
D

default

I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?

If the fog light is causing the 555 to trigger (and it might well do
so, on the same supply and all) you should hear the relay click
periodically. Do you?

What is happening to the power supply voltage while this is going on?

Are the contacts of the relay good for the current? Incandescent
lamps have a very low resistance when the filament is cold, so they
can draw lots of current until they heat - the relay contacts may be
welding themselves shut (a series inrush current limiter would fix
that) for instance a 100 watt bulb may suck 20 amps (>2000 watts) for
a few milliseconds.

If the light is pulling down the power supply, put a large
electrolytic (>1000 ufd/16 volts) on the 555 circuit and a forward
biased diode just supplying current to the monostable (not the fog
light).

555's need stable power - with no electrical noise to work properly

If this is going in a car - the problem might be better with a low
impedance power supply (battery) or worse - more electrical noise.
 
E

Echinos

default said:
If the fog light is causing the 555 to trigger (and it might well do
so, on the same supply and all) you should hear the relay click
periodically. Do you?

Yes, I definitely hear the click - on and off when the LED is
connected, but only on when the lamp is connected. I can take the load
off the contact side of the relay totally, and I can hear the relay
turning on and off easily.
What is happening to the power supply voltage while this is going on?

Dunno. I have no o-scope to look at it with, and I have not checked to
see if a volmeter would tell me anything useful yet.
Are the contacts of the relay good for the current? Incandescent
lamps have a very low resistance when the filament is cold, so they
can draw lots of current until they heat - the relay contacts may be
welding themselves shut (a series inrush current limiter would fix
that) for instance a 100 watt bulb may suck 20 amps (>2000 watts) for
a few milliseconds.

The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.

If the light is pulling down the power supply, put a large
electrolytic (>1000 ufd/16 volts) on the 555 circuit and a forward
biased diode just supplying current to the monostable (not the fog
light).

I'll try that. Thanks.
555's need stable power - with no electrical noise to work properly

If this is going in a car - the problem might be better with a low
impedance power supply (battery) or worse - more electrical noise.

This is not going in a car.. Eventually it will be running off a 12V
car battery, however. It will be a circuit used to momentarily turn on
various lights and motors, once I manage to scale up the design after
getting the basics right.
 
E

ehsjr

Echinos said:
Yes, I definitely hear the click - on and off when the LED is
connected, but only on when the lamp is connected. I can take the load
off the contact side of the relay totally, and I can hear the relay
turning on and off easily.




Dunno. I have no o-scope to look at it with, and I have not checked to
see if a volmeter would tell me anything useful yet.




The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.





I'll try that. Thanks.




This is not going in a car.. Eventually it will be running off a 12V
car battery, however. It will be a circuit used to momentarily turn on
various lights and motors, once I manage to scale up the design after
getting the basics right.


+12 ---+---------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+



At a minimum, add D1, C1, C2 and D2 to your circuit
if they are not already there. C1 is a relatively
large electrolytic, say 470 uF (use what you have
on hand > 100 uF, 16V or >). C2 is .01 uF. The diodes
can be 1N400x, 1N4148, 1N914 etc pretty much whatever
you have on hand.

Those parts should be part of the circuit you described,
even if there wasn't a problem.


Ed
 
E

Echinos

ehsjr said:
Echinos said:
Yes, I definitely hear the click - on and off when the LED is
connected, but only on when the lamp is connected. I can take the load
off the contact side of the relay totally, and I can hear the relay
turning on and off easily.




Dunno. I have no o-scope to look at it with, and I have not checked to
see if a volmeter would tell me anything useful yet.




The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.





I'll try that. Thanks.




This is not going in a car.. Eventually it will be running off a 12V
car battery, however. It will be a circuit used to momentarily turn on
various lights and motors, once I manage to scale up the design after
getting the basics right.


+12 ---+---------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+



At a minimum, add D1, C1, C2 and D2 to your circuit
if they are not already there. C1 is a relatively
large electrolytic, say 470 uF (use what you have
on hand > 100 uF, 16V or >). C2 is .01 uF. The diodes
can be 1N400x, 1N4148, 1N914 etc pretty much whatever
you have on hand.

Those parts should be part of the circuit you described,
even if there wasn't a problem.

I do not have D1 or C1 for the VCCbut I have the rest. One other thing
I found is to put a diode between the output and the relay, because
apparently it is possible that without it, the relay can re-trigger the
555 when the relay coil de-energizes. IE:

+12 ---+--------------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|-->|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+----+

I'll try a couple of things and see how it goes.

Another question now.... Once I get this thing operating as required,
what would be the best way to connect this circuit to power, say, 4 of
theses lamps, a small DC motor or two, 10 or so LEDs, and a couple of
other 555's? My initial thought is to use this relay to power the coil
side of other relays, one for each lamp and the motor. For the LEDs and
the 555, I would maybe use 1 relay to supply power to all of them
together.

The last step is to get some sort of sensor that, when tripped, will
turn the whole shebang on for 10 seconds or so, and turn off. The
problem is that it will be outside all year, and in snowy country. The
sensor is to be tripped by a passing scale model train. So, I was
thinking of using an outdoor motion sensor, but it would trip from
passig animals and probably wind making trees move. I've thought of a
sealed limit switch of some sort, or possibly an IR beam with some PVC
tubing to protect the emitter + receiver. Also, I might be able to use
a hall effect sensor of some sort, but I can't think of how to easily
protect such a thing from winter, or even rain in the summer. Maybe I
could bury a vibration sensor underground and seal the thing up?

Cheers
 
D

default

The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.

I guess I'm going on the assumption that the 555 is sitting there fat
dumb and happy until a negative trigger comes in to pin 2 (if my
memory is right) then the relay pulls in and light comes on for what
should be a short period of time - but just stays on. Have I got that
right? Relay and 4 amp light is working on normally open contacts?

What initiates the monostable timing cycle? A switch or some other
circuitry?

I dunno about that 5 amp relay. I was referring to a 120 vac 100 watt
lamp - reads about 6 ohms until it heats up, then it is over 100 ohms
- halogen lamps are worse in that respect (smaller thicker filaments
designed to run hotter).

I really don't understand it not at least clicking - drop out or try
to, and the 555 re trigger immediately on the noise. That's what
prompts me to ask about the relay.

A good thing to try would be to connect the light - trigger the
monostable then physically disconnect the light, while the circuit is
powered up and see if the relay drops out.

Depending on the state of your parts supply . . . Why not just
eliminate the relay and see what happens? Use a power transistor to
control the lamp. With 12 volts and a standard 555 you might have
enough drive to saturate a switching transistor directly - you'd sure
have enough to turn on a mosfet.

I built a solid state flasher for my motorcycle - can flash from 200
ma to over 10 amps using a single 30 amp mosfet with no heatsink - I
cut the tab off the TO220 case to save room.
 
E

Echinos

default said:
I guess I'm going on the assumption that the 555 is sitting there fat
dumb and happy until a negative trigger comes in to pin 2 (if my
memory is right) then the relay pulls in and light comes on for what
should be a short period of time - but just stays on. Have I got that
right? Relay and 4 amp light is working on normally open contacts?
Correct-a-mundo.


What initiates the monostable timing cycle? A switch or some other
circuitry?

For now, just a momentary pushbutton. Later on it will be some sort of
sensor or limit-swith type of thing. All this is on a breadboard atm.

I dunno about that 5 amp relay. I was referring to a 120 vac 100 watt
lamp - reads about 6 ohms until it heats up, then it is over 100 ohms
- halogen lamps are worse in that respect (smaller thicker filaments
designed to run hotter).

Aha - this is a halogen lamp, I believe. Could be making the problem
worse.
I really don't understand it not at least clicking - drop out or try
to, and the 555 re trigger immediately on the noise. That's what
prompts me to ask about the relay.

A good thing to try would be to connect the light - trigger the
monostable then physically disconnect the light, while the circuit is
powered up and see if the relay drops out.

Yes, indeed, that's what happens. If I trigger the light, it turns on
and stays on, and if I disconnect the lead going from the relay to the
light, I hear the relay turn off immediately. I can then re-attach the
light, and retrigger it, with the same results.
Depending on the state of your parts supply . . . Why not just
eliminate the relay and see what happens? Use a power transistor to
control the lamp. With 12 volts and a standard 555 you might have
enough drive to saturate a switching transistor directly - you'd sure
have enough to turn on a mosfet.

Basically, I'm working with what I have atm. I have no problem going
and getting parts if I need them, but I had seen this described as a
way to control higher current from a 555, so it just where I've
started. I have tried a power transistor, but it did not seem to work.
I think it might have to do with the fact that it is a halogen light.
The power transistors I happen to have are the TIP31 and TIP32. I don't
think they can handle 4A, but I might be able to use a different lamp
with less current.
I built a solid state flasher for my motorcycle - can flash from 200
ma to over 10 amps using a single 30 amp mosfet with no heatsink - I
cut the tab off the TO220 case to save room.

Impressive. I imagine such a mosfet might be a little pricey?

Cheers
 
E

Echinos

ehsjr said:
Echinos said:
Yes, I definitely hear the click - on and off when the LED is
connected, but only on when the lamp is connected. I can take the load
off the contact side of the relay totally, and I can hear the relay
turning on and off easily.




Dunno. I have no o-scope to look at it with, and I have not checked to
see if a volmeter would tell me anything useful yet.




The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.





I'll try that. Thanks.




This is not going in a car.. Eventually it will be running off a 12V
car battery, however. It will be a circuit used to momentarily turn on
various lights and motors, once I manage to scale up the design after
getting the basics right.


+12 ---+---------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+



At a minimum, add D1, C1, C2 and D2 to your circuit
if they are not already there. C1 is a relatively
large electrolytic, say 470 uF (use what you have
on hand > 100 uF, 16V or >). C2 is .01 uF. The diodes
can be 1N400x, 1N4148, 1N914 etc pretty much whatever
you have on hand.

Those parts should be part of the circuit you described,
even if there wasn't a problem.


Ed

Well, the circuit is now behaving as expected, and the one change that
does the trick is the diode on the VCC to the 555. Of course, I think
it will be a good idea to have the cap from vcc to ground, too.

Thanks all for the assistance.
 
D

default

Impressive. I imagine such a mosfet might be a little pricey?

Cheers

Yeah boy, cost a whole 99 cents. Spec on the part is N channel, Vds
50V, Ids 38 amps, Rds (on) .038 ohms.

PN > BUK455-50B

another IRFZ34 50V, 30A, 05 ohms 89 cents

Pretty good lamp drivers - only downside may be that it takes a fast
blow fuse to protect it.

I dipped it in varnish and potted it in an empty dental floss case
with two wires for the connections. Only way to get a 10 ufd cap to
keep up the power while the circuit is busy making a short (shorting
its own power supply) was to use a mosfet.

Mounted it to the bike only to find there was an unused ground wire
there so it could use a two or three wire flasher - but it was fun to
tinker with.
 
J

Jamie

Echinos said:
I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?
test your supply voltage with the light on.
 
W

Winfield

Echinos said:
Echinos said:
default wrote:



I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?

If the fog light is causing the 555 to trigger (and it might well do
so, on the same supply and all) you should hear the relay click
periodically. Do you?


Yes, I definitely hear the click - on and off when the LED is
connected, but only on when the lamp is connected. I can take the load
off the contact side of the relay totally, and I can hear the relay
turning on and off easily.


What is happening to the power supply voltage while this is going on?


Dunno. I have no o-scope to look at it with, and I have not checked to
see if a volmeter would tell me anything useful yet.


Are the contacts of the relay good for the current? Incandescent
lamps have a very low resistance when the filament is cold, so they
can draw lots of current until they heat - the relay contacts may be
welding themselves shut (a series inrush current limiter would fix
that) for instance a 100 watt bulb may suck 20 amps (>2000 watts) for
a few milliseconds.


The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.



If the light is pulling down the power supply, put a large
electrolytic (>1000 ufd/16 volts) on the 555 circuit and a forward
biased diode just supplying current to the monostable (not the fog
light).


I'll try that. Thanks.


555's need stable power - with no electrical noise to work properly

If this is going in a car - the problem might be better with a low
impedance power supply (battery) or worse - more electrical noise.


This is not going in a car.. Eventually it will be running off a 12V
car battery, however. It will be a circuit used to momentarily turn on
various lights and motors, once I manage to scale up the design after
getting the basics right.


+12 ---+---------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+



At a minimum, add D1, C1, C2 and D2 to your circuit
if they are not already there. C1 is a relatively
large electrolytic, say 470 uF (use what you have
on hand > 100 uF, 16V or >). C2 is .01 uF. The diodes
can be 1N400x, 1N4148, 1N914 etc pretty much whatever
you have on hand.

Those parts should be part of the circuit you described,
even if there wasn't a problem.

I do not have D1 or C1 for the VCCbut I have the rest. One other thing
I found is to put a diode between the output and the relay, because
apparently it is possible that without it, the relay can re-trigger the
555 when the relay coil de-energizes. IE:

+12 ---+--------------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|-->|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+----+

I'll try a couple of things and see how it goes.

Another question now.... Once I get this thing operating as required,
what would be the best way to connect this circuit to power, say, 4 of
theses lamps, a small DC motor or two, 10 or so LEDs, and a couple of
other 555's? My initial thought is to use this relay to power the coil
side of other relays, one for each lamp and the motor. For the LEDs and
the 555, I would maybe use 1 relay to supply power to all of them
together.

The last step is to get some sort of sensor that, when tripped, will
turn the whole shebang on for 10 seconds or so, and turn off. The
problem is that it will be outside all year, and in snowy country. The
sensor is to be tripped by a passing scale model train. So, I was
thinking of using an outdoor motion sensor, but it would trip from
passig animals and probably wind making trees move. I've thought of a
sealed limit switch of some sort, or possibly an IR beam with some PVC
tubing to protect the emitter + receiver. Also, I might be able to use
a hall effect sensor of some sort, but I can't think of how to easily
protect such a thing from winter, or even rain in the summer. Maybe I
could bury a vibration sensor underground and seal the thing up?

Cheers

You could use a sealed reed switch for a trigger, with a magnet on the
train, or, if the voltage is supplied to the train via the rails and
(metal?) wheels, you could use a simple (spring) wire contact that brushes
the 0V wheel as it goes past to trigger the '555.
.... Fred
 
R

Roger Dewhurst

Echinos said:
Echinos said:
default wrote:



I have set up a one-shot 555 timer to trigger a relay for a few
seconds. With just that set up, it works fine; I can hear the relay
turn on and off. With an LED connected to the relay output, it turns
on and off as expected, along with the relay.

Finally, I hooked up a car fog light that draws 4A, and the light and
relay will turn on, but not off. When I disconnect the fog light from
the relay, then I hear the relay switch off. I can then reconnect the
fog light, and retrigger it again, but the relay again does not
deactivate.

Notes: I have no transistor between the 555 output and the relay. I do
have a 'kickback' diode on the coil side of the relay. Both the 555 and
the fog light are on the same power supply, which happens to be the 12V
output of a PC power supply. The 555 is triggered by a momentary switch
between GND and the trigger pin, and the trigger pin is tied high
through a 100K resistor. The relay is a 12V relay that is rated to
handle 5A on the contact side.

My guess is that the 555 is being retriggered somehow, as if the fog
light is causing a trigger signal to the 555, but I'm not sure why the
200mA of the LED isn't doing anything, but the 4A of the fog light is.

Any ideas?

If the fog light is causing the 555 to trigger (and it might well do
so, on the same supply and all) you should hear the relay click
periodically. Do you?


Yes, I definitely hear the click - on and off when the LED is
connected, but only on when the lamp is connected. I can take the load
off the contact side of the relay totally, and I can hear the relay
turning on and off easily.


What is happening to the power supply voltage while this is going on?


Dunno. I have no o-scope to look at it with, and I have not checked to
see if a volmeter would tell me anything useful yet.


Are the contacts of the relay good for the current? Incandescent
lamps have a very low resistance when the filament is cold, so they
can draw lots of current until they heat - the relay contacts may be
welding themselves shut (a series inrush current limiter would fix
that) for instance a 100 watt bulb may suck 20 amps (>2000 watts) for
a few milliseconds.


The lamp draws 4A when connected directly to the 12V power source, and
the relay is rated for 5A. The relay is still OK, it works fine if I
remove the lamp.



If the light is pulling down the power supply, put a large
electrolytic (>1000 ufd/16 volts) on the 555 circuit and a forward
biased diode just supplying current to the monostable (not the fog
light).


I'll try that. Thanks.


555's need stable power - with no electrical noise to work properly

If this is going in a car - the problem might be better with a low
impedance power supply (battery) or worse - more electrical noise.


This is not going in a car.. Eventually it will be running off a 12V
car battery, however. It will be a circuit used to momentarily turn on
various lights and motors, once I manage to scale up the design after
getting the basics right.


+12 ---+---------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+



At a minimum, add D1, C1, C2 and D2 to your circuit
if they are not already there. C1 is a relatively
large electrolytic, say 470 uF (use what you have
on hand > 100 uF, 16V or >). C2 is .01 uF. The diodes
can be 1N400x, 1N4148, 1N914 etc pretty much whatever
you have on hand.

Those parts should be part of the circuit you described,
even if there wasn't a problem.

I do not have D1 or C1 for the VCCbut I have the rest. One other thing
I found is to put a diode between the output and the relay, because
apparently it is possible that without it, the relay can re-trigger the
555 when the relay coil de-energizes. IE:

+12 ---+--------------------------------------+
a| D2 |
[D1] +----|<----+ |
| .---------. | | | <|
+----|8 555 3|-->|---+---[Ry]---+ |
+| ~ ~ | |
[C1] ~ ~ | [Lamp]
| | 5|---+ | |
| .__1______. | +------+
| | [C2] |
| | | |
Gnd ---+-------+----------+----------+----+

I'll try a couple of things and see how it goes.

Another question now.... Once I get this thing operating as required,
what would be the best way to connect this circuit to power, say, 4 of
theses lamps, a small DC motor or two, 10 or so LEDs, and a couple of
other 555's? My initial thought is to use this relay to power the coil
side of other relays, one for each lamp and the motor. For the LEDs and
the 555, I would maybe use 1 relay to supply power to all of them
together.

The last step is to get some sort of sensor that, when tripped, will
turn the whole shebang on for 10 seconds or so, and turn off. The
problem is that it will be outside all year, and in snowy country. The
sensor is to be tripped by a passing scale model train. So, I was
thinking of using an outdoor motion sensor, but it would trip from
passig animals and probably wind making trees move. I've thought of a
sealed limit switch of some sort, or possibly an IR beam with some PVC
tubing to protect the emitter + receiver. Also, I might be able to use
a hall effect sensor of some sort, but I can't think of how to easily
protect such a thing from winter, or even rain in the summer. Maybe I
could bury a vibration sensor underground and seal the thing up?

Bury a coil, of about the same dimensions as the object to be detected,
underground, and amplify the induced current when a metal object passes over
it.

R
 
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