M
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4 questions about an old motorcycle ignition system. Electrical
questions are 2 and 3, and maybe 1.
Well, I got my '69 Honda CB450 reassembled, just in time for the last
2 days of warm weather.
1) I tried to start it and it didn't start, and I had other things to
do for 2 or 2.5 hours, and when I got back to it, I saw that I had
left the ignition switch on**. This model has two carburetors 2
coils, 2 sets of points and 2 condensors. One coil was warm, and it
had 1 to 2 thimbles of waxy stuff which had come out of it. Did I
ruin the coil? If not yet, will it die in 5 or 10 hours of use? Is
there some way to repair the damage I did? (It's not clear I'll be
able to find a new set of coils for a 1969 motorcycle.)
2) One set of points was open and one was closed. I put a thin piece
of cardboard between the closed points, turned the ignition on again,
and measured the voltage across the points. The circuit is battery
plus terminal - coil - (points/condenser, where these two are in
parallel with each other) - ground - battery negative terminal. So it
seems to me that the voltage should be battery voltage, about 12
volts. Or should it be less until the condenser fills? The voltage
was 6 volts using an analog meter, and didnt' seem to be going up. I
thought, Oh my gosh, I've run down my brand new battery, but when I
checked the voltage there, it was at least 12.5.
BTW, how much damage *did* I do to the battery by running one ignition
coil for 2 to 2.5 hours?
3) On the other circuit, I tried to evaluate the other condenser by
turning the ignition off and measuring the resistance across the
points, which I'm pretty sure is across the condenser. I expected to
see the resistance pretty low as the condenser filled and then
increace. But the resistance was close to infinity. If I tested
right? that means the condensor is open, but that shouldn't keep the
cyclinder from firing, right? IIRC, mostly what it means is that the
points would pit quickly?? If I can't get the right condensor
quickly, what value and type would I need to jerry rig one
temporarily?
4) There is a wick that lubricates the cam and keeps the rubbing
blocks from wearing out. I can't remember what I'm supposed to put on
the wick. What do I use, and if they don't still sell it, what do I
buy instead?
(I had trouble remembering this 30 to 20 years ago,
too, but I haven't had to worry about it since I've had
all-elecctronic ignitions on my car)
**If it had started, I would have remembered to turn the ignition off,
but since it didn't, I didn't. My fault.
BTW, the starter motor worked well, even though I hadn't checked it
out, and the kick starter seemed to maybe be working well, or at least
differently, even though it would go so far and then stop dead without
cranking up till now. The clutch disengaging is working fair, and the
throttle doesn't spring back quickly enough, even though I oiled all 3
cables (2 carburetors) and the throttle plates moved easily after
soaking the carburetors in Permatex.
questions are 2 and 3, and maybe 1.
Well, I got my '69 Honda CB450 reassembled, just in time for the last
2 days of warm weather.
1) I tried to start it and it didn't start, and I had other things to
do for 2 or 2.5 hours, and when I got back to it, I saw that I had
left the ignition switch on**. This model has two carburetors 2
coils, 2 sets of points and 2 condensors. One coil was warm, and it
had 1 to 2 thimbles of waxy stuff which had come out of it. Did I
ruin the coil? If not yet, will it die in 5 or 10 hours of use? Is
there some way to repair the damage I did? (It's not clear I'll be
able to find a new set of coils for a 1969 motorcycle.)
2) One set of points was open and one was closed. I put a thin piece
of cardboard between the closed points, turned the ignition on again,
and measured the voltage across the points. The circuit is battery
plus terminal - coil - (points/condenser, where these two are in
parallel with each other) - ground - battery negative terminal. So it
seems to me that the voltage should be battery voltage, about 12
volts. Or should it be less until the condenser fills? The voltage
was 6 volts using an analog meter, and didnt' seem to be going up. I
thought, Oh my gosh, I've run down my brand new battery, but when I
checked the voltage there, it was at least 12.5.
BTW, how much damage *did* I do to the battery by running one ignition
coil for 2 to 2.5 hours?
3) On the other circuit, I tried to evaluate the other condenser by
turning the ignition off and measuring the resistance across the
points, which I'm pretty sure is across the condenser. I expected to
see the resistance pretty low as the condenser filled and then
increace. But the resistance was close to infinity. If I tested
right? that means the condensor is open, but that shouldn't keep the
cyclinder from firing, right? IIRC, mostly what it means is that the
points would pit quickly?? If I can't get the right condensor
quickly, what value and type would I need to jerry rig one
temporarily?
4) There is a wick that lubricates the cam and keeps the rubbing
blocks from wearing out. I can't remember what I'm supposed to put on
the wick. What do I use, and if they don't still sell it, what do I
buy instead?
(I had trouble remembering this 30 to 20 years ago,too, but I haven't had to worry about it since I've had
all-elecctronic ignitions on my car)
**If it had started, I would have remembered to turn the ignition off,
but since it didn't, I didn't. My fault.
BTW, the starter motor worked well, even though I hadn't checked it
out, and the kick starter seemed to maybe be working well, or at least
differently, even though it would go so far and then stop dead without
cranking up till now. The clutch disengaging is working fair, and the
throttle doesn't spring back quickly enough, even though I oiled all 3
cables (2 carburetors) and the throttle plates moved easily after
soaking the carburetors in Permatex.
