Maker Pro
Maker Pro

3801 denon receiver

Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape, when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display, no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing. I have
checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm meter, they are all ok.
checked voltage where power cord plugs into board, shows 120 volts, if
you unplug receiver and checked switched outlet on back of receiver,
the outles show open with ohm meter, unplug yellow and white wire on
transformer to board and now switched outlets are no longer reading
open....does this sound like a power transformer, any way to test?
 
A

Arfa Daily

Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape, when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display, no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing. I have
checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm meter, they are all ok.
checked voltage where power cord plugs into board, shows 120 volts, if
you unplug receiver and checked switched outlet on back of receiver,
the outles show open with ohm meter, unplug yellow and white wire on
transformer to board and now switched outlets are no longer reading
open....does this sound like a power transformer, any way to test?

I don't understand your assertion that the switched outlet reads "open" with
an ohm meter, then doesn't when the white / yellow lead is unplugged. Are
you sure you don't mean that you read a short, or at least a low reading,
when the plug is in, and then an open when it is unplugged ? That situation
works, as the back panel socket, will be connected in parallel with the
power transformer primary, which is itself switched via a relay. The fact
that you do read this low value ( I believe ) would indicate that the
primary of the main tx is ok. As the seller said that the unit was ok, I
would suspect that it might have taken a knock in transport, and you should
be looking for fractured print on the power input board, particularly where
any pins from the transformers are connected. I have seen this many times.
Examine all print around the power input and transformers very carefully
with a magnifying glass if necessary. I'm willing to bet you will find your
problem quickly, if you know what you are looking for.

Arfa
 
J

JR

Arfa said:
I don't understand your assertion that the switched outlet reads "open" with
an ohm meter, then doesn't when the white / yellow lead is unplugged. Are
you sure you don't mean that you read a short, or at least a low reading,
when the plug is in, and then an open when it is unplugged ? That situation
works, as the back panel socket, will be connected in parallel with the
power transformer primary, which is itself switched via a relay. The fact
that you do read this low value ( I believe ) would indicate that the
primary of the main tx is ok. As the seller said that the unit was ok, I
would suspect that it might have taken a knock in transport, and you should
be looking for fractured print on the power input board, particularly where
any pins from the transformers are connected. I have seen this many times.
Examine all print around the power input and transformers very carefully
with a magnifying glass if necessary. I'm willing to bet you will find your
problem quickly, if you know what you are looking for.





well i have looked it over some more...still havent found much...looked
for fractured print, no luck yet. I did get the dmm back out, to check
voltages...not getting volatge anywhere on the board exept where the
power cord it plugging into board, checked for voltage at the 2 main
fuses..nothing, checked for voltage on every wire on power transformer,
nothing there either

Thanks in advance
 
J

JR

JR said:
well i have looked it over some more...still havent found much...looked
for fractured print, no luck yet. I did get the dmm back out, to check
voltages...not getting volatge anywhere on the board exept where the
power cord it plugging into board, checked for voltage at the 2 main
fuses..nothing, checked for voltage on every wire on power transformer,
nothing there either

Thanks in advance


if i unplug the yellow and white wires from transformer, i then have
voltage at main fuses, plug the connector back in, no voltage at fuses,
also there is 2 red and 1 black wires on transformer...checking between
the red and black shows shorted, the guy i bought it from said he heard
a pop when it quit, and he supposedly replaced fuses....
 
A

Arfa Daily

JR said:
if i unplug the yellow and white wires from transformer, i then have
voltage at main fuses, plug the connector back in, no voltage at fuses,
also there is 2 red and 1 black wires on transformer...checking between
the red and black shows shorted, the guy i bought it from said he heard
a pop when it quit, and he supposedly replaced fuses....

Ah, then it's not quite as straightforward as you originally implied. I got
the impression that the guy who sold it was saying that it was working when
it left him. I am not liking the sound of popping coming from it. I can make
no sense of the voltage readings you appear to be getting. The system is
straightforward enough if it's the model I think it is. As far as I
remember, there is a standby supply which powers the system micro, and
provides a supply for a relay, which is driven by a power on signal from
said micro. The relay switches power to the primary of the main power
transformer. It is quite common for the thermal fuse in the primary of the
main power transformer to fail, but the symptoms of that are that the unit
powers on, in as much as the relay will click, but nothing else happens, no
display, no sound, nothing. You need to determine if the standby supply is
established, and if not, why not. The incoming power lead should be
connected almost directly to the standby tx primary.

Arfa
 
J

JR

Arfa said:
Ah, then it's not quite as straightforward as you originally implied. I got
the impression that the guy who sold it was saying that it was working when
it left him. I am not liking the sound of popping coming from it. I can make
no sense of the voltage readings you appear to be getting. The system is
straightforward enough if it's the model I think it is. As far as I
remember, there is a standby supply which powers the system micro, and
provides a supply for a relay, which is driven by a power on signal from
said micro. The relay switches power to the primary of the main power
transformer. It is quite common for the thermal fuse in the primary of the
main power transformer to fail, but the symptoms of that are that the unit
powers on, in as much as the relay will click, but nothing else happens, no
display, no sound, nothing. You need to determine if the standby supply is
established, and if not, why not. The incoming power lead should be
connected almost directly to the standby tx primary.

Arfa

well he claims that after the pop and everything shutoff, he replaced
the fuses and it started working. Yet when i received it , no nothing,
so i dont know if he is telling the truth or not. I paid him 300 and he
wont refund, so i basically got burned, just trying to get it to work
so i dont have to pour a alot more into...not sure how much it would
cost at a shop, also no one around here works on them so i would have
to ship...
well no clicking when plugging in or pushing power button..the power
button dont feel right to me either..at least not like my onkyo
receiver...ive about give up...i dont have a schematic to follow, and
so im just guessing
 
J

Jim Land

[email protected] wrote in @j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape, when
it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no display, no
standby light, no click when you hit power switch nothing.

DOA. Return it.
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

JR said:
he refuses to refund money...tried filing a claim with paypal...no
luck...im stuck with it

I might be able to send a PDF of the manual - it would be a pretty big PDF.
What size attachment can you take, and is

jrgreene1968ATsuddenlink.net

a valid e-mail address?

Mark Z.
 
J

JR

Mark said:
I might be able to send a PDF of the manual - it would be a pretty big PDF.
What size attachment can you take, and is

jrgreene1968ATsuddenlink.net

a valid e-mail address?

Mark Z.

man that would be great...i should be able to accept a large
attachment, and yes that is the right e-mail addy

Thanks alot
 
D

Dave

JR said:
well he claims that after the pop and everything shutoff, he replaced
the fuses and it started working. Yet when i received it , no nothing,
so i dont know if he is telling the truth or not. I paid him 300 and he
wont refund, so i basically got burned, just trying to get it to work
so i dont have to pour a alot more into...

I've found that paypal is absolutely NO help whatsoever in these types of
disputes... their "buyer protection" hooplah is a load of crap. One time I
did not receive a <relatively expensive> item which I purchased on eBay and
paid for with paypal. Now it doesn't get any more straightforward than
that. I paid for something which I did not get. Well, I can't remember the
rationale, but PayPal didn't seem to think it had anything to do with
them...

However, I have also found that VISA has been extremely helpful... if I get
burned on any type of internet purchase, my VISA issuer will cover it when
others will not.

LEAVE NEGATIVE FEEDBACK ON EBAY FOR THIS TURD.

good luck with the amp, you'll get it going. Power problems are about the
easiest to diagnose although not necessarily the cheapest to fix...
 
H

Homer J Simpson

I've found that paypal is absolutely NO help whatsoever in these types of
disputes... their "buyer protection" hooplah is a load of crap. One time
I did not receive a <relatively expensive> item which I purchased on eBay
and paid for with paypal. Now it doesn't get any more straightforward
than that. I paid for something which I did not get. Well, I can't
remember the rationale, but PayPal didn't seem to think it had anything to
do with them...

It's taken a while but they are actually pretty good now. I've had half a
dozen full refunds from them for fake items or non ships.

You MUST file within the deadlines. Even if you think the guy MIGHT still
ship, FILE! You can always cancel the complaint if he comes through.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bad-eBay-Sellers
--
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape,
when it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no
display, no standby light, no click when you hit power switch
nothing. I have checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm
meter, they are all ok. checked voltage where power cord plugs into
board, shows 120 volts, if you unplug receiver and checked switched
outlet on back of receiver, the outles show open with ohm meter,
unplug yellow and white wire on transformer to board and now switched
outlets are no longer reading open....does this sound like a power
transformer, any way to test?

Sorry - forgot all about you yesterday. I'll try to get you that manual.

mz
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape,
when it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no
display, no standby light, no click when you hit power switch
nothing. I have checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm
meter, they are all ok. checked voltage where power cord plugs into
board, shows 120 volts, if you unplug receiver and checked switched
outlet on back of receiver, the outles show open with ohm meter,
unplug yellow and white wire on transformer to board and now switched
outlets are no longer reading open....does this sound like a power
transformer, any way to test?

OK, tried to send you the manual - it bounced because it was too big. I'l
split it and send it in 2 parts.

Mark Z.
 
J

JR

Mark said:
OK, tried to send you the manual - it bounced because it was too big. I'l
split it and send it in 2 parts.

Mark Z.

man i really appreciate it...it looks like i have a bad relay, im gonna
get on the phone and see if i can find parts
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

JR said:
man i really appreciate it...it looks like i have a bad relay, im
gonna get on the phone and see if i can find parts

Actually had to split it into about 6 parts. What a pain.These PDF split
programs could be better designed. One has to experiment with page ranges,
etc to get an acceptable size. Could be done better with a graphical
interface.

I really doubt you have a bad relay, more likely a circuit board crack.

Mark Z.
 
A

Arfa Daily

Mark D. Zacharias said:
Actually had to split it into about 6 parts. What a pain.These PDF split
programs could be better designed. One has to experiment with page ranges,
etc to get an acceptable size. Could be done better with a graphical
interface.

I really doubt you have a bad relay, more likely a circuit board crack.

Mark Z.
Agreed

Arfa
 
J

JR

Arfa said:
Agreed

Arfa


well i finally give up, couldnt find the problem, so i sent it off to
an authorized denon repair center, they called me today, said the micro
processor is out, and probably alot more but they would ave to replace
processor before doing any more troubleshooting...i said..how much? he
replied, 170.00 to replace processor and as much as 760.00 for other
problems, i told them to forget it and send it back to me, so i guess
im back to the drawing board
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

JR said:
well i finally give up, couldnt find the problem, so i sent it off to
an authorized denon repair center, they called me today, said the
micro processor is out, and probably alot more but they would ave to
replace processor before doing any more troubleshooting...i said..how
much? he replied, 170.00 to replace processor and as much as 760.00
for other problems, i told them to forget it and send it back to me,
so i guess im back to the drawing board

OK, read the other post which didn't really express the "two-tiered"
estimate. I can understand the possibility that the shop, after not finding
any obvious cracks, etc gave the estimate to replace the micro as an initial
step. Done this myself sometimes, usually after a lightning strike. I'll
tell the insurance company it's so much to replace the micro, win, lose or
draw - then we'll see what doesn't work after that.

Mark Z.
 

Similar threads

J
Replies
2
Views
2K
carneyke
C
D
Replies
4
Views
1K
Arfa Daily
A
S
Replies
0
Views
1K
Shoreline Electronics
S
Top