-
Categories
-
Platforms
-
Content
Welcome to EP @Natal!
When posting to the forums here, please provide as much information as possible to define the problem you are asking our help to solve. A Google search revealed there were many models of "Kenwood trio receiver/tuner," but you did not tell us which model you have. If the model number is known, this website will likely have a PDF copy of the original manufacturer's operating manual and (sometimes) service manual. The site does require that you register, but is otherwise free.
There are literally dozens if not hundreds or thousands of light bulbs with a 12 V, 0.15 A, rating. You need to specify which type of bulb you want to replace, usually identified by the bulb envelope size and the base configuration. Try looking at this page for clues.
Good luck!
I couldn't find an exact replacement either. Sometimes when "repairing" ancient electronics you have to make compromises. You may be able to solder the insulated hook-up wires, shown crimped to the original lamp, to a replacement lamp that has a base attached to the lamp filament wires. Typically this would be either a bayonet or screw-threaded base. For example, this one might work. It appears to have about the right size envelope, but the voltage and current ratings differ from your original: 14.4 V @ 0.12 A instead of 12 V @ 0.15 A, so it will be slightly dimmer. You will have to solder wires to it, perhaps covering the solder job with shrink tubing for a good appearance.I searched on ebay uk and a little bit on google but I didn't find such bulb.
I couldn't find an exact replacement either. Sometimes when "repairing" ancient electronics you have to make compromises. You may be able to solder the insulated hook-up wires, shown crimped to the original lamp, to a replacement lamp that has a base attached to the lamp filament wires. Typically this would be either a bayonet or screw-threaded base. For example, this one might work. It appears to have about the right size envelope, but the voltage and current ratings differ from your original: 14.4 V @ 0.12 A instead of 12 V @ 0.15 A, so it will be slightly dimmer. You will have to solder wires to it, perhaps covering the solder job with shrink tubing for a good appearance.
Here is a leaded lamp from another supplier, but it has a much smaller power requirement, 12 V @ 0.04 A, so will be much less bright.
The lamp in your photo has crimped connections to the insulated hook-up wires. From the photo, it appears the lamp is pulled down toward the plastic tube below it, perhaps with just the base of the lamp entering the tube. You probably won't have the proper crimping tool or barrel ferules to make the original type of crimped connection. So, if the replacement lamp has wire leads, you will have to solder the insulated hook-up wire shown in your photo to those lamp leads, which you should cut as close as possible to the replacement lamp envelope while still leaving enough length to solder.
Perhaps if you cut the burned-out lamp leads off at the ferules, leaving the ferules still attached to the hook-up wires, you can wrap the replacement lamp leads around the ferules before soldering them in place. A drop or two of hot-melt glue or silicone RTV cement will help protect the lamp connections from vibrations which could eventually cause one or both of the soldered connections to fail.
Yes. It will be somewhat brighter because of the increased current. This type of bulb is designed to plug into a socket, but you can carefully straighten out the wire leads and solder them to your existing insulated wire leads. When straightening out the leads, grip them close to the glass envelope with long-nosed pliers and use a second set of pliers to carefully unfold them. Try not to wiggle the wire, held with pliers, close to the glass envelope. They tend to break off where they enter the glass.I found a similar shape of bulb a 12v @0.25 amps instead of 0.15 do you think that it will do the job?
Yes. It will be somewhat brighter because of the increased current. This type of bulb is designed to plug into a socket, but you can carefully straighten out the wire leads and solder them to your existing insulated wire leads. When straightening out the leads, grip them close to the glass envelope with long-nosed pliers and use a second set of pliers to carefully unfold them. Try not to wiggle the wire, held with pliers, close to the glass envelope. They tend to break off where they enter the glass.
Measure the lamp envelope dimensions of the burnt out lamp and compare to the published dimensions of this lamp to make sure the size is compatible. Unless you want to make a hobby out of this project, I would suggest buying just the one lamp whose picture you posted. Only if it appears to be too bright do you need to explore alternatives, one of which is to simply wire a diode in series with the lamp if the lamp wires are 12 V AC. Another is to solder in a small-valued resistor to drop the current down and reduce the brightness to an acceptable level to you. That would require some experimentation to find the most suitable value of resistor because the lamp filament resistance changes with its temperature, being low when lamp is cold and higher when lamp is hot. The lamp you found has 48 Ω resistance when hot, drawing 0.25 A @ 12 V.
The bulb sits in the far right of the unit and lights the tuner display FM/AM numbersUsually one would expect to find s..e..v..e..r..a..l lamps being used . . . . .however your unit does seem to be using a Panaplex display.
There is no chance that this is being for the indicator for the STEREO FM . . .is it ?