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14-15volt regulated output needed from 12V supply?

Hi, hoping someone can help me - I have a transceiver that relies on
having a good solid 14-15v voltage supply. I am running it from 12V
7.2A batteries ( its a portable system ). When the batteries are fully
charged and giving out a 13V+ all is fine. However, when it starts
slipping down below or near to 12V, the performance of the radio really
suffers. Whats the best way of maintaining a regular, say, 15V supply?

I guess some kind of 'inverter' would be required, but not sure what,
if anything else, needs to be added. The radio is protected with a 3Amp
fuse, and does draw quite a lot of current - I have had a quick look at
a few voltage regulators from RS, but they all seem to be for 5V Vin,
not 12V.

Thanks in advance for any help, apologies if I'm just being
stupid....electronics is not my strong point.

J.
 
J

James Thompson

Hi, hoping someone can help me - I have a transceiver that relies on
having a good solid 14-15v voltage supply. I am running it from 12V
7.2A batteries ( its a portable system ). When the batteries are fully
charged and giving out a 13V+ all is fine. However, when it starts
slipping down below or near to 12V, the performance of the radio really
suffers. Whats the best way of maintaining a regular, say, 15V supply?

I guess some kind of 'inverter' would be required, but not sure what,
if anything else, needs to be added. The radio is protected with a 3Amp
fuse, and does draw quite a lot of current - I have had a quick look at
a few voltage regulators from RS, but they all seem to be for 5V Vin,
not 12V.

Thanks in advance for any help, apologies if I'm just being
stupid....electronics is not my strong point.

J.
What kind of pack are you using and or is it made for the radio?
If it not made for it or say you are using nicad's in place of alkaline in
the internal holder that is, I would simply look for some lithium
recharable's and a charger for them. Nickle cadmium batteries are 1.2 volt
as to alkaline or lithium are a full 1.5 volt. From what you said, I
suspect you have an internal battery holder for 10 AA cells, and you are
using NiCads in place of alkaline's.
You will spend a little for the lithium rechargables but they will run your
radio much longer. JTT
 
T

Tobias Weingartner

Hi, hoping someone can help me - I have a transceiver that relies on
having a good solid 14-15v voltage supply. I am running it from 12V
7.2A batteries ( its a portable system ). When the batteries are fully
charged and giving out a 13V+ all is fine. However, when it starts
slipping down below or near to 12V, the performance of the radio really
suffers. Whats the best way of maintaining a regular, say, 15V supply?

You're looking for a decent (3 Amp plus) DC-DC converter. Last time I was
looking for such beasts, it seemed that 30-40v -> 12v were available, and
even 9-12v -> 30-40v, but doing the 9-12v -> 14-16v always seemed somewhat
troublesome to find. If anything, I would see about putting 2 of your
batteries in series to get ~24v, and then find a 24v -> 14-16v dc-dc
converter. Then again... it's been some time since I've looked.
 
It runs other equipment - so I'm stuck with the supply voltage as is. I
have tried looking for DC to DC converters on RS, but they seem to have
poor output current (I need 1.2Amps on transmit, the ones I've found
only seem to go up to 400mA ). Any other ideas? Cheers,
Jez
 
C

Chris

Hi, hoping someone can help me - I have a transceiver that relies on
having a good solid 14-15v voltage supply. I am running it from 12V
7.2A batteries ( its a portable system ). When the batteries are fully
charged and giving out a 13V+ all is fine. However, when it starts
slipping down below or near to 12V, the performance of the radio really
suffers. Whats the best way of maintaining a regular, say, 15V supply?

I guess some kind of 'inverter' would be required, but not sure what,
if anything else, needs to be added. The radio is protected with a 3Amp
fuse, and does draw quite a lot of current - I have had a quick look at
a few voltage regulators from RS, but they all seem to be for 5V Vin,
not 12V.

Thanks in advance for any help, apologies if I'm just being
stupid....electronics is not my strong point.

To clarify, the batteries are 2x motorcycle type 12V 7.2AH - used to
power other apps like gps/PDA etc. - Need to keep a 12V supply. Jez

Hi, J. The obvious solution is to replace your 12V battery and 12V
battery charger with three 6V batteries and a 6V or 18V battery
charger, and then use a 3 amp linear regulator to cut the power supply
voltage down to size. Apart from being the most expensive solution, it
would work pretty well.

If you want to get a steady 13.8VDC out of a 12V battery, you're not
going to be able to do it with a linear regulator -- they can only
reduce the voltage, taking the difference between input voltage and
reduced output voltage times the current you're using, and dissipating
it as heat. You can't use a saw to make a piece of wood bigger.

Another possible solution would be to use an automotive inverter to get
120VAC, and use that to power a small bench 13.8VDC supply.
Altogether, though, that would be less than 50% efficient (you'd be
using more energy to power your apparatus than to power your
transceiver). Probably not the way to go, if you're concerned about
battery life.

Switching voltage regulators can boost the power supply voltage up, and
are pretty efficient (typically 75 to 87% of the input power is
actually used to drive the load). But building a good one requires a
little more technical skill than you admit to having.

One easy solution might be using a commercially available DC-to-DC
boost converter. This has the switching regulator built-in. The
device assures a steady input voltage to devices powered from a car
cigarette lighter. Typically, they'll give you 12.5VDC or 13.8VDC from
an input voltage varying between 10V and 15V. They're also fairly
inexpensive, so they'd be a one part solution to your problem. Here's
an inexpensive one ($30) that will give you a steady 12.5V output, if
your steady-state power requirement is less than 25 watts (2 amps):

http://www.powerstream.com/dc-2171.htm

There is a downside to this -- you'll have to be careful about running
your battery into the ground. Your setup has the advantage of becoming
unuseable before the battery becomes deeply discharged. Lead-acid
motorcycle batteries generally don't react kindly to being
deep-discharged repeatedly. You'll have to watch this, because these
DC-to-DC converters generally don't shut down until your battery
voltage is below 8 volts or so. Unless the battery is made to handle
deep discharge, this might reduce battery life. And the additional
power requirement of the DC-to-DC boost converter will probably
discharge your battery that much faster, meaning you probably won't get
that much more useful time out of the battery.

Your best solution might be to just buy a bigger battery. You also
might want to look for a "marine"-type battery, which is made for deep
discharge service.

Good luck
Chris
 
R

Rich Grise

Hi, hoping someone can help me - I have a transceiver that relies on
having a good solid 14-15v voltage supply. I am running it from 12V
7.2A batteries ( its a portable system ). When the batteries are fully
charged and giving out a 13V+ all is fine. However, when it starts
slipping down below or near to 12V, the performance of the radio really
suffers. Whats the best way of maintaining a regular, say, 15V supply?

I guess some kind of 'inverter' would be required, but not sure what,
if anything else, needs to be added. The radio is protected with a 3Amp
fuse, and does draw quite a lot of current - I have had a quick look at
a few voltage regulators from RS, but they all seem to be for 5V Vin,
not 12V.

Thanks in advance for any help, apologies if I'm just being
stupid....electronics is not my strong point.

You're not being stupid. The only stupid question is the one that you
don't ask. :)

But, you seem to have a situation here - the simplest answer is to get
better (i.e., bigger) batteries, and have a couple of sets on hand, to
switch over when one set gets low, so you can charge it, and so on. The
thing about trying to boost the ~12V from a discharging battery is that
it's already almost to the end of its useful charge, and any kind of
boost regulator would draw even more current than the equipment. I'd
look for good marine deep-cycle batteries - they'll probably maintain
their charge better than motorcycle starter batteries anyway.

Good Luck!
Rich
 
E

ehsjr

Hi, hoping someone can help me - I have a transceiver that relies on
having a good solid 14-15v voltage supply. I am running it from 12V
7.2A batteries ( its a portable system ). When the batteries are fully
charged and giving out a 13V+ all is fine. However, when it starts
slipping down below or near to 12V, the performance of the radio really
suffers. Whats the best way of maintaining a regular, say, 15V supply?

I guess some kind of 'inverter' would be required, but not sure what,
if anything else, needs to be added. The radio is protected with a 3Amp
fuse, and does draw quite a lot of current - I have had a quick look at
a few voltage regulators from RS, but they all seem to be for 5V Vin,
not 12V.

Thanks in advance for any help, apologies if I'm just being
stupid....electronics is not my strong point.

J.

The most practical solution may be the one Chris gave you:
a 6v battery + a 12 volt battery for 18 volts total, and
a linear regulator to drop it down to about 13 - 14 volts.
Usually, standard car battery chargers have a 6 volt setting
so you can charge the 6V battery as well as the 12 volt
battery (not at the same time). You need 2 resistors, 2
capacitors and an LM350:


-----
+18 ---+---Vin|LM350|Vout---+-----+---> + 13.75 V
| ----- | |
| |Adj [220R] |
| | | |
[.1uF] +----------+ [1uF]
| | |
| [2.2K] |
| | |
Gnd ---+---------+----------------+---> Gnd

The LM350 will handle up to 3 amps - mount it on
a good heatsink. You could use an LM317 which will
handle up to 1.5 amps, but the extra current capability
of the LM350 gives you a nice extra safety margin for
less than a dollar more. ($1.26 for a 350).

Monitor the voltage across the battery with the lowest
Ah rating. When the 6 volt battery reaches 5.75, or when
the 12 volt battery reaches 11.5, it's time to recharge,
as a general rule for you to follow with this arrangement.

Ed





Ed
 
J

Jasen Betts

It runs other equipment - so I'm stuck with the supply voltage as is. I
have tried looking for DC to DC converters on RS, but they seem to have
poor output current (I need 1.2Amps on transmit, the ones I've found
only seem to go up to 400mA ). Any other ideas? Cheers,
Jez

keep looking.

KEMO makes a 2A module (but I can't read the part number in the picture I have)

Jaycar (.co.nz) sells it for 50 of our our dollars (CAT# AA0264)

Bye.
Jasen
 
W

Walter Harley

To clarify, the batteries are 2x motorcycle type 12V 7.2AH - used to
power other apps like gps/PDA etc. - Need to keep a 12V supply. Jez

As you observe, it's hard to find DC-DC converters with 9-18V input and
14-15V output.

But it's easy to find them with 9-18V input and 3.3V isolated output, or
even adjustable 1-5V (for instance, Jameco part 218878CK, 10.2V-13.8V in,
0.9V-5V out at 15A, $12). So, use the motorcycle battery to power the
input, and put the output *in series* with the battery to step it up by
3.3V:



.-----------.
.---------|+ +|--------- 15V
| | |
| IN| |OUT
| | |3.3V
| .---|- -|--.
| | '-----------' |
| | |
o-----)------------------o------ 12V
| |
--- |
- |
| 12V |
| |
o-----o------------------------- GND
|
===
GND
(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)


That might get you a bit too much juice, if your battery is fully charged;
you could put a diode in series with the 15V output to drop it by 0.7V.
Make sure the diode is rated for the current and power dissipation you need
(0.7V * 2A = 1.4W).
 
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