Inductor number L2001 melt-down

[whiteoutage]

Another rookie mistake. While de-soldering a broken usb port I accidentally melted a component with my iron. My only clue is the lettering on the motherboard that says L2001. A schematic is for sale @ $11.50 by schematiconline.com. But I would rather not pay if not necessary, don't know if the schematic would even tell me the replacement part I need. I love fixing electronics but my electronics knowledge is limited. Hoping one of you experts can look at this and tell me what replacement part would likely work?

Some pictures attached. I could not find a good picture online of what it look like beforehand, other than a low res pic that showed it was about twice the size of the ones next to it (bank of 4 L500 to L504)

 

[whiteoutage]

circled area is where inductor was.

 

[whiteoutage]

just noticed that the other usb port farther up the board has an identical inductor. (L2000 - of course it has no markings) ?. Multimeter showd 1650 when in diode mode in both directions. Can someone please provide a link to what I need?

 

[shrtrnd]

I can't. Did you try Googleing the schematic you want for free to see if anybody posted anything on it?
The 'L' designator on the board tells you it's an inductor.
But the ohmmeter diode-test function won't provide you the actual inductance value.
If you can't find the inductor value from somebody posting a parts list for your unit, you may have to buy that
schematic.
If you know somebody with a test instrument like a Sencore Z-Meter, you may still be able to read the inductance
of that melted inductor if just the plastic housing was melted.

 

[Alec_t]

L2000 appears to be connected in series with both data lines of the USB, so my guess is it's a common-mode choke.

 

[whiteoutage]

common-mode choke

I can't. Did you try Googleing the schematic you want for free to see if anybody posted anything on it?
The 'L' designator on the board tells you it's an inductor.
But the ohmmeter diode-test function won't provide you the actual inductance value.
If you can't find the inductor value from somebody posting a parts list for your unit, you may have to buy that
schematic.
If you know somebody with a test instrument like a Sencore Z-Meter, you may still be able to read the inductance
of that melted inductor if just the plastic housing was melted.

Thanks much for replies! Yes, google had some of the schematic but not for that part. Sure wish I had an electronics buddy who had such a meter. I'm thinking L2001 is totally fried but L2000 is identical just need to somehow find out what specs has it.

L2000 appears to be connected in series with both data lines of the USB, so my guess is it's a common-mode choke.

Do you think this will make a good substitue?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-TAIYO-Y...445942&hash=item1c43fa6f7a:g:mp8AAOSwVFlT205L

 

[kellys_eye]

If it's a common mode choke (which is looks to be) then it is only really essential to keep noise from being sent out on the data lines of the USB port. Unless you're running high speed devices on that port (video etc) you'll probably get away with just shorting both sides out. Crude, I know, but if it's a case of working or not-working I know which choice I'd make!

 

[whiteoutage]

I love "McGyver" options. Take is a step further -can I just leave it as it since the USB port was broke already, to get me running again? There is no continuity -totally open, melted on my iron.
.
Eventually I will fix it . Have to order parts, etc. I found a very basic china inductance meter that has good reviews. LC-100S on eBay for $15.

 

[whiteoutage]

Also, if I should not leave as is but temporarily short it, what is best way to short (just solder 2 wires across tabs?)

 

[whiteoutage]

anyone?

 

[davenn]

Do you think this will make a good substitue?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-TAIYO-Y...445942&hash=item1c43fa6f7a:g:mp8AAOSwVFlT205L

yes