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Basic Soldering advice

Using a soldering Iron, I can get the task in hand up to a level where the circuit/project actually works, but its very rough with spikes and often I get dry joint connections especially soldering onto new components, for example I am converting a some fancy decorative latters that have LEDS incorparated, they are designed to run on batterys, but as they are switched on for long periods I have converted them to run on a 3V DC power supply and using interconnecting leads between each letter, ie one Transformer supplies the three letters. The interconnects are 2.1 x 5mm power connections, BUT I cannot seem to get a neat and clean connection onto these plugs, I can mke the wire stick, but as above its not neat. What advice can you expert folks give me, should I be cleaning the connections of the components first with a flux. The solder I am using is a simple lead free solder from Maplins.....and the Iron I was using was a gas powered hand held unit, I have now purchased a decent soldering station, but have yet to use it. Any advice would be most welcome
 
Lead free solder sucks. Look for a non lead free solder that has flux in it, but not a vegetable flux. You can get a no clean flux version but I have never used that. I can't remember the name of the reel I have at work but will find out its name.
Adam
 
Using a soldering Iron, I can get the task in hand up to a level where the circuit/project actually works, but its very rough with spikes and often I get dry joint connections especially soldering onto new components, for example I am converting a some fancy decorative latters that have LEDS incorparated, they are designed to run on batterys, but as they are switched on for long periods I have converted them to run on a 3V DC power supply and using interconnecting leads between each letter, ie one Transformer supplies the three letters. The interconnects are 2.1 x 5mm power connections, BUT I cannot seem to get a neat and clean connection onto these plugs, I can mke the wire stick, but as above its not neat. What advice can you expert folks give me, should I be cleaning the connections of the components first with a flux. The solder I am using is a simple lead free solder from Maplins.....and the Iron I was using was a gas powered hand held unit, I have now purchased a decent soldering station, but have yet to use it. Any advice would be most welcome
I would like to encourage a little more practice as well.
Solder types can make all the difference, but so can the Iron.

I love using the adjustable temp irons, and I try to make sure I keep the tip clean with brass shavings or a damp sponge. Once I've cleaned the tip off, I put a little bubble of solder on the tip and use it to preheat the connection before adding a little more solder. I try my best to make sure I have good contact with the iron on both parts sides of the joint. The solder will *not* flow into a joint if the materials are still too cold!
I suggest practicing, and honestly for the first couple times, hold the iron on the joint a little longer than you would normally expect. I try to aim to complete through hole soldering tasks within 3-5 seconds per joint starting when I first touch the iron to the joint.
Once the solder connection is done, I use a little pair of side-cutters and trim the excess wire off which usually includes a little bit of solder that has climbed up the wire. If you find your solder looks like a chocolate hershey's kiss, you may be adding too much solder, and if it does not stick, then the pad/wire is either too cold still or it's dirty. (flux helps with that)
 
And also leave solder on the iron when you put it in the holder, never put a dry iron in the holder. Wipe it off for the next use.
Adam
 
Great advice chaps, much appreciated, I have bought an adjustable temp iron, and I do tend to be hasty, and not let the conductors heat up. Im always concious of damaging components etc etc. Once again thanks for your advice!!!
 
Great advice chaps, much appreciated, I have bought an adjustable temp iron, and I do tend to be hasty, and not let the conductors heat up. Im always concious of damaging components etc etc. Once again thanks for your advice!!!
If you put a dry tip on the conductor it will heat up pretty slowly. A little blob of solder on the iron to 'wet' it helps tremendously to increase the surface area of the contact patch which will help heat it up.
As far as component damage is concerned, there are specs listed on some components that list their maximum temp and duration. Remember that some of these things go through an oven to melt the solder! You won't need to worry much about heat damage for most parts unless you re-heat the item and pad numerous times or sit the iron on the component for extended periods of time.
You'll be comfortable as you play and experiment.
 
Hopefully, you know that you heat the parts to be soldered and melt the solder on the parts, not on the soldering iron.

Bob
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
The method I use, and it comes after many years of experience, is as follows:

  1. Before soldering the joint, plunge the to a couple of times into a brass "sponge" to clean it up.
  2. Place the tip on the joint such that it has good contact with both the wire and the pad (or whatever the things are that you're joining.
  3. Touch the end of the solder on the larger part of the joint, it should start to melt and flow over it. If it does not, touch it on the tip to place a small amount of solder on the tip to improve heat flow.
  4. If the solder applied to the joint did not immediately flow into the entire joint, paint it on with the end of the solder. With resin core solder this will apply flux to areas which may have a little more oxide than others.
  5. When there is sufficient solder on the joint remove the solder and then the iron. If there is a little too much solder, removing the iron by dragging it along the wire (that you're going to clip off) of the component often removes most of the excess.
  6. Examine the joint, resolder if necessary.
  7. Clip off excess wire and move to the next joint. (Typically you'd solder all leads of a single component before clipping them)
The process from step 1 to 5 is done quickly. For small components, the soldering iron stays on the joint for about a second. There not a lot of thinking involved, you have to be practiced and and to do it all by "instinct". If something is tricky, the time to think is before you place the iron on the joint.

You can really make your life easier by precleaning the joint. Whilst this will almost always improve your experience, and give you a more reliable joint faster, it also takes time. The method I normally use (when required) is to use an eraser designed for ink. This can be rubbed over flat pads, and with the aid of a slit cut into it, can be run along component leads. It can also be used to clean the oxide off your solder, which can help significantly in getting the flux in the solder to work where you want it to.

If you're soldering through hole components on a printed circuit board (or veroboard) rust the temptation of folding leads over. If you ever need to remove the component you've just made your life much harder. At most, splay the leads slightly so the component doesn't fall out while you're soldering it. If you're afraid it will slip out of place, solder one lead, then check it is in the right position before soldering the other. If not, push it gently in place with a finger while you quickly melt the joint -- with practice you rarely burn your finger (and even when you do, you may feel a little pain, but you should not actually cause any damage to yourself).
 
It can also be used to clean the oxide off your solder, which can help significantly in getting the flux in the solder to work where you want it to.
I keep my reel of solder in a plastic bag with the end of the solder coming out through a hole. This stops my sticky fingers from corroding the solder and stops me picking up lead.

Cleanliness is critical.
 
Make sure to tin the soldering iron before you do your work and make sure the iron is capable of heating up the joint fairly quickly.......You could practice just soldering some wires to each other for starts.....then go to thicker, heaver wire and you will see the difference in the amount of time it takes to heat a bigger joint with the same temperature.....I have a fairly high temperature soldering iron and I made up a homemade adjustable heat regulator by using a regular dimmer switch.....and I marked the setting as LOW, MED and HIGH.......I also have a switch and a 3 prong cord as well to connect it to the AC supply....I just have my iron plugged into it...and can adjust the temperature to suit the job I am doing.......cheap and effective....for me anyway.....that was years ago.....you can buy temperature controlled soldering stations pretty cheap these days.......hope this helps some.....
 
Using a soldering Iron, I can get the task in hand up to a level where the circuit/project actually works, but its very rough with spikes and often I get dry 8joint connections especially soldering onto new components, for example I am converting a some fancy decorative latters that have LEDS incorparated, they are designed to run on batterys, but as they are switched on for long periods I have converted them to run on a 3V DC power supply and using interconnecting leads between each letter, ie one Transformer supplies the three letters. The interconnects are 2.1 x 5mm power connections, BUT I cannot seem to get a neat and clean connection onto these plugs, I can mke the wire stick, but as above its not neat. What advice can you expert folks give me, should I be cleaning the connections of the components first with a flux. The solder I am using is a simple lead free solder from Maplins.....and the Iron I was using was a gas powered hand held unit, I have now purchased a decent soldering station, but have yet to use it. Any advice would be most welcome
Using a soldering Iron, I can get the task in hand up to a level where the circuit/project actually works, but its very rough with spikes and often I get dry joint connections especially soldering onto new components, for example I am converting a some fancy decorative latters that have LEDS incorparated, they are designed to run on batterys, but as they are switched on for long periods I have converted them to run on a 3V DC power supply and using interconnecting leads between each letter, ie one Transformer supplies the three letters. The interconnects are 2.1 x 5mm power connections, BUT I cannot seem to get a neat and clean connection onto these plugs, I can mke the wire stick, but as above its not neat. What advice can you expert folks give me, should I be cleaning the connections of the components first with a flux. The solder I am using is a simple lead free solder from Maplins.....and the Iron I was using was a gas powered hand held unit, I have now purchased a decent soldering station, but have yet to use it. Any advice would be most welcome
First of all use some alcohol to clean all parts you need to solder.Allways use flux(every flux will work,for fun i even tried 1$ fake chinese Amtec flux from ebay and it is still better than soldering with no flux).Don't use lead free solder,get 60/40 or 63/37 solder and please don't use cheap solder...you can use cheap iron,cheap flux but buy decent solder.You can use the cheapest iron but make sure tip is clean and silver colored.If the tip is black use the finest sand paper to clean it,and while the iron is cold,wrap solder wire around the tip(like coil) and let heat up slow(if it is iron witouth ON/OFF switch then plug and unplug iron from outlet in 5-10 second periods).If you do that the tip will stay tined,and if there are still black spots just repeat cleaning and tinning.Only do that with tips that are delaminated,old and not really expensive or important to you.Try various tips for different jobs it makes difference.When soldering don't heat up solder,heat up things that need to be soldered and then touch hot PCB and component leg with soldering wire.When soldering put small amount of solder directly between the iron tip and soldering point to bridge them so you get good heat transfer.Don't use thick soldering wire because it is hard to put right amount of solder like that,use thin one.Be fast because you don't want all flux to burn because you are slow.Don't use wet sponge,it gets your tip cold,damaging tip...just buy that metallic sponge...like iron shavings(3-5$ on eBay with holder and it works like charm).And last thing,when you make solder joint,and when iron tip is still on the joint wait few seconds untill all flows in place and then remove iron tip as fast as possible,that way you don't get that spikes...just pull it fast like someone poked you with needle :D.
I hope you will understand what i wrote because English is not my native language,and i am pretty wasted writing this sitting on can typing on 5" screen.Hope you learn something,and practice as much as possible.
 
Lead free solder sucks. Look for a non lead free solder that has flux in it, but not a vegetable flux. You can get a no clean flux version but I have never used that. I can't remember the name of the reel I have at work but will find out its name.
Adam
Any ideas on calming shakes hands? I know about coffee. Lol
 
Using a soldering Iron, I can get the task in hand up to a level where the circuit/project actually works, but its very rough with spikes and often I get dry joint connections especially soldering onto new components, for example I am converting a some fancy decorative latters that have LEDS incorparated, they are designed to run on batterys, but as they are switched on for long periods I have converted them to run on a 3V DC power supply and using interconnecting leads between each letter, ie one Transformer supplies the three letters. The interconnects are 2.1 x 5mm power connections, BUT I cannot seem to get a neat and clean connection onto these plugs, I can mke the wire stick, but as above its not neat. What advice can you expert folks give me, should I be cleaning the connections of the components first with a flux. The solder I am using is a simple lead free solder from Maplins.....and the Iron I was using was a gas powered hand held unit, I have now purchased a decent soldering station, but have yet to use it. Any advice would be most welcome


Sondering is easy, but the tools are important, clean surfaces are important, the type of solder is important, and the flux is crucial.

If you don't get smooth solder connections you can have either not enough heat, no, or the wrong flux, and, or solder.

I solder with a smaller tip, and more heat. I wet the connection by getting solder on it, then push just enough solder into the connection for a clean smooth solder joint.

There is no substitute for experience, so once you know what is important, you can work on technique. If you try to solder bare copper, it has to be really clean, and you need good flux. The temperature you solder at, and the tip you use is all important. Consider that if you have heavy connections, thick wire, larger mass, it will require more instantaneous heat, so you would probably use a heavy, or thick soldering tip, because it can hold more heat. The bigger the tip is, the more heat it can transfer, and the faster the soldering will go.
Get good quality solder, kester is one, but there are others. The size of the solder should be gauged by what you intend to solder. Just remember these few important details, solder, Flux, soldering station/heat, and clean. Your work needs to be clean, you need good flux, you need the right size solder, and you need enough heat. The flux removes contaminates from the metal as it is heated, the flux helps the solder flow. Without flux, your solder won't flow, and you won't know what is happening. Small solder has a little flux in its core, and bigger solder has even more flux in its core. You can also buy rosin flux in a bottle, and put some on your work with a Q-tip. There are a lot of variables in soldering, so try something easy, understand it, then move on to something more difficult until you master it.
 
I'm waiting on some warmer states to legalize it. Why is it all the cold states want it and the warm states don't?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
The voters in Massachusetts spoke. Question #4 passed. Legalizing recreational marijuana

Totally off topic, but this is interesting because, as I understand it, drug offences exist at both the state and federal level.

Whilst a state can remove its own laws, or decide to simply not enforce them, only the latter option exists for federal laws (assuming the decriminalization if at a state level).

How much acquiescence of federal agencies is required to achieve this?

If state police and state prosecutors are not referring cases to the judiciary, can federal police (FBI?) and federal prosecutors step into the vacuum?

I'm sure this is well known to our American cousins, but the practice of law varies from country to country and I'm curious.
 
There seems to be widespread misunderstanding of the purpose of flux.

It is not to clean the metal. It is a barrier to prevent oxidisation when the joint is heated.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Some fluxes DO clean the metal. These are exactly the sort that you need to avoid using for electronic work.

Note that some electronic fluxes are so active at grabbing oxygen that they can strip it from copper. This could be argued as a cleaning process but it is specific to oxidation.
 
Yes *steve*, that is true.

I'm afraid that I didn't make myself clear. I refer to the flux made for soldering electronics items, either as cores within the solder or as a separate paste.
 
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